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The road surface was good and only getting better as we passed through Castleton Gardens and over a wide, solid steel bridge crossing over the Wag Water river. Driving along this river gorge, the Wag Water River meandered some 30 to 50 feet below us. Large, smooth, black Igneous rocks the height of two storied buildings dotted the river bed at intervals. Volcanic rock over 50 million years old, moved from the hills to the river bed by the force of water! As we descended towards Annotto Bay and crossed over another bridge we suddenly realized we were on the coast and the Wag Water river was rolling rapidly and joyously into the Caribbean sea.

We entered the District of Epsom, the home of Banana plantations, notably Agualta Vale Estate. Tall, thick interlocking trees and bushes formed a natural wall protecting the frail Banana trees from the elements as well as from plunder. Coconut trees, mango trees, almond trees and tall bread fruit trees, God’s rich abundance everywhere! On a hill side in the town I spied an old Anglican Church and recalled having visited that same church in the not too distant past to celebrate the life of a family friend. The church yard has tomb stones dating back to the 18th century as this area was settled at that time by British Planters and has its’ relics and ruins to explore. Mention was made of an old regimental hospital built to care for the soldiers of the then British army housed in the area. Driving into Buff Bay, the old Methodist church stood solidly dead ahead. Further along lay St Margaret’s Bay and “Waterloo”.

My own personal and upsetting “Waterloo of the moment” took the form of a police inspection point. Did I see it? No! The vehicle ahead of me slowed (having seen the cops) ,and so I went around it ( not having that focused vision). And so I ended up with a ticket for crossing over an unbroken white line…Well, I absolutely HATE getting police tickets, so after this hubby drove and tried to tease me out of my temporarily deflated spirits.

Port Antonio is one of the most beautiful natural environments on God’s earth! As you enter, the newly built Resident’s Magistrate Court house stands solid and beautiful. A cut stone building making a statement. Another, less noticeable land mark is the Coronation Bakery. This relatively small building is responsible for producing Coronation Easter bun, a very popular brand of Easter bun. Easter bun, along with cheese, is traditionally another MUST at Easter. Driving by the old and new Marinas, passing old “name brand hotels” hidden away on the sea side. Passing through Folly, where clear, shallow water beaches lay adjacent to the road and a cricket match was in full swing on the “Folly Oval”. Making our way into the district of San San, driving into the parking lot at San San Tropez guest house.

A pretty archway grown from bougainvillea bushes crosses the entrance to this guest house. A Jamaican “youth” directs us inside, where we are greeted by the young European entrepreneurs who currently manage the guest house. We were escorted to our room past a tidy dining area, a swimming pool, a bar and a wide lawn area with ornamental shrubs. The suite actually consisted of accommodation for a family as there were two rooms housing a queen sized bed and a double bed, a single bathroom ,a table with a chair, and a mounted TV. A rustic balcony with growing vines over looked a garden and road.

San San Tropez is a one and a half acre property with fruit trees, a garden and open spaces where wedding receptions are held. There are nine suites, all named for fruits (banana, mango, pineapple, guava, strawberry, etc). The suites are equipped with TV, A/C and King, queen or standard beds. Internet access was available in the lobby. Jamaican and Italian cuisine is available on request. Through out the Guest house are strategically scattered oil paintings depicting typical Jamaican scenes by the Jamaican Artist Ken Spencer.

I spoke with a young employee, Mr Ricardo James, who is a chef and the Food and Beverages supervisor for the guest house. Ricardo, who is an attractive and well dressed young man, sat with me under a tree outside on a back patio and shared his experience at San San Tropez with me. Ricardo is a” local “ from the district of “Nonsuch” who was hired on at San San Tropez as a waiter nearly ten years ago. Before this he had “ waitered “at the Palace Hotel (in Port Antonio) for three years. Due to his interest in cooking he learned to cook Italian from the in-house chef as Italian cooking is the specialty cuisine at this guest house. I learned that San San Tropez is owned by an Italian Gentleman, Fabio, who was off the island at the time we visited and managed by Andre, another Italian. Fabio Favelli is an Italian who visited Dragon Bay nearby some twenty years ago and fell “in love” with Jamaica. Fabio purchased a residence (Ginger Hill) and converted it into his own tropical paradise, San San Tropez.

The guest house sees a fair amount of Italian and European guest traffic. Ricardo said that “working at the Palace was straight business but here (San San Tropez) is “family”, like home. He finds Fabio (owner) easy to work with and said that Fabio loves gardening and could often be found in the garden, clipping flowers and weeding. Ricardo likes cooking Pasta best and recommends the Carbonar pasta (pasta sautéed with eggs and bacon). Another favourite was the “Blue Lagoon pasta” (lobster and shrimp in tomato sauce). Also popular is baked lobster sautéed with Jamaican over proof rum! Homemade lasagna and pizzas are “par for the course”.

Setting out from San San Tropez later that afternoon ,we traveled to attend the famous Boston Jerk Festival to sample Jamaican “jerked” meats from the original source of “jerked” foods. We parked at the top of a significant traffic snarl and walked down to the huts where the traditional “pit” cooked jerk meats were being cooked before us and were available for purchase. We visited “Davids’ Place” where we met the owner ,David, and his partners “Treasure” and “the Dread”. Treasure told us that their jerk stand has been in operation for over 18 years! We purchased Jerk pork, lobster, a vegetable sausage ,a jerked chicken sausage and roast bread fruit.

Leaving the hurly burly market venue we headed back to San San, stopping at the San San beach to eat our purchases. This is a quiet, peaceful place with beautiful white sands curving through the bay. A jetty “walked” out into the sea, a yacht was moored some distance away and a small, densely forested uninhabited island was visible within swimming distance. We sat in the covered dining area where we met Mary (also called Miss Mac), a tall , lovely Jamaican woman who manages the beach property. She is an export from Kingston who is also “in love” with Port Antonio and has lived there for several years. She spoke with us in a friendly manner, serving us our ordered Red stripe beer and rum punch drinks and informing us of places of interest to visit while we ate our jerked lunch.

Back at the guest house later that night, I dressed elegantly for dinner in my “leopard spotted on black” outfit and high heels and headed out on the town with my husband for dinner and dancing at the “ Anna Banana Restaurant”. Unobtrusive and easily missed while driving, this thatched roof building opened into a large airy space, filled with rattan weave and wood furniture and tables set at different levels around a central bar area. Well lit areas, well attired young, energetic, beautiful employees. The sea side with tables set on the sand, a raised stage with a thatched covering where the resident band with vocalists Ernest Wilson and Cassandra made their contributions. Their rich, full, mellow voices exhibited that raw Jamaican talent that the island is so well known for. Ernest Wilson, formerly of the “Clarendonians”, a reggae group from Clarendon birthed at the same time Bob Marley was hitting the charts, reminded me of “Fats Domino” with his heavy, full resonant voice. Cassandra must have noticed how much we enjoyed her music as she dedicated one of her selections specially to us. We were well served with our shrimp in garlic sauce dinner by Alvaries Baugh a young, pretty waitress who introduced us to the Head waiter, the charming Jermaine Jaipaul . We ate, good food, we chatted, we danced, we listened to good music, we were well attended to by the staff. Anna Banana is a fine place to dine at in Port Antonio!

Late to bed, later to rise, but the next morning I still found time to visit Frenchman’s Cove Beach facility ,which is directly across the road from the San San Tropez guest house. The beach is a beautiful spot where a river runs directly into the sea. High cliffs covered with green vegetation and dotted yet hidden guest houses surround a white sand beach. This day the sea was rough with tall waves rolling in to spume white water against the rocky cliff sides. Swimming wasn’t possible at this time though there are days when the sea surface is as calm as glass. Instead I stood my ground in the sea water and let the heavy waves beat on me for a time then lay on a beach chair and enjoyed reading a good book.

Later that afternoon, as we made our way back to Kingston with hubby driving to make sure we remained “ticket” free, I sighed in contentment. A good holiday, fine food, and the very best beaches. I thanked God for real and present blessings.

Author Arna J Morgan

]]> http://rumnrelaxation.com/?feed=rss2&p=1591 0 http://rumnrelaxation.com/?p=1584 http://rumnrelaxation.com/?p=1584#comments Sat, 14 Apr 2012 21:43:25 +0000 admin http://rumnrelaxation.com/?p=1584 At RumandRelaxation.com we are committed to discovering and showcasing the many interesting places to go and things to do in the Caribbean.

]]> http://rumnrelaxation.com/?feed=rss2&p=1584 0 http://rumnrelaxation.com/?p=1570 http://rumnrelaxation.com/?p=1570#comments Fri, 13 Apr 2012 16:48:21 +0000 admin http://rumnrelaxation.com/?p=1570 The highest lighthouse in the Western Hemisphere is the Lover’s Leap Lighthouse found in the southern part of the parish of St. Elizabeth, Jamaica. The lighthouse itself is 100ft tall but stands upon a precipice that is 1700ft high. The lighthouse is witness to Lover’s Leap one of the most spectacular views in Jamaica, the Caribbean and perhaps in the entire world. The location of the Lighthouse was once known as Look Out, however the name was changed to Lover’s Leap as legend has it that two young slaves in love chose to leap from the cliff rather than be parted by a jealous master.

Lover’s Leap Lighthouse has three power sources – a generator, batteries and electricity. The area surrounding it is a tourist attraction as many pass through to enjoy the spectacular and breathtaking views available. The lighthouse is maintained by the Port Authority of Jamaica and not surprisingly is on the list of designated National Heritage Sites for the country.

I hope you like this little tidbit of information. If there are any cool facts about the Caribbean that you know of and would like for me to share please send me an email at marcm@rumandrelaxation.com.

Author Marc Morgan

1. A sign gives visitors their choice of the fishing village on the way to Matelot or the rocky view of the Salybia Lighthouse. You can even do both (like we did).

2. For the first choice, we head further north pass The Toco Fish Depot, to a scene that is reminiscent of old Trinidad.

3. The history of this place dates back to 1738, when the Catholic Capuchin priests erected a mission to convert its founding residents, the Amerindians.

4. Mission as it is called is an ideal place for beach sports and turtle nesting since it offers a wide shore with shade from hanging Almond trees and the waves are gentler compared to the other side. Today two girls are practicing volleyball.

5. To the other end, pass areas where people camp is a place whose name has sometimes been confused with the island’s southeastern point which Columbus referred to as the “Galea”.

6. Now dubbed Galera, this point is the home of The Galera Point Lighthouse, which stands at seventy feet (21.34 meters). Officially opened in the year Queen Victoria celebrated her Diamond Jubilee to the British Thorne, this tourist attraction emits a glow that covers 16 nautical miles.

7. Surrounded by cliffs, signs line a stoned pathway that leads the way to the lookout.

8. As you, pass the last warning sign, down the narrow dirt track with shrubs on either side, then onto the rock platform, brace yourself for the wind is strong and crisp, and the view is beyond amazing.

9. The milky waves crash against the moss stained rocks.

10. A couple battles with the raging waves to reel in the evening’s catch.

11. On a clear day you can even see the outline of the sister isle Tobago.

12. The roaring of a blowhole as a wave crashes against the rocks interrupts the silence.

13. As we sit and stare, a Corbeau (Vulture) flies by, as does time, our adventures ends and it is now time to go home.

Author Kyna Rampersad

Check Kyna’s Blog (Kyna D. Rampersad) to read more of her writing and to view her photography.

As we crossed over the train line at Clarendon Park the landscape opened to wider spaces with farmlands and fields sporting red coated Jersey cows. Crossing from Clarendon into Manchester we entered Porus, and drove down the busy main street, starting the climb across Melrose Hill where we passed a pit stop where tourists and native Jamaicans stop to purchase jerk pork and roast yam among other local delicacies. Then to the Mandeville bypass. We climbed Spur Tree Hill where one gets the feeling of being at the top of a roller coaster, just when you feel and see the world before you, as if you could walk on the clouds, you take a curve and realize that yes, you are still grounded. And then the wide valley expanse of South St Elizabeth was presented to us as sharp cliffs fell away to the right or left as we descended. The “bread basket “ of Jamaica was exposed in its’ lush entirety! Red, red earth, rich in bauxite which is the base product used to manufacture aluminum foil and airplanes. As we pulled over on the soft shoulder of the road to ask for directions to Lititz, near our final destination, I noticed the affluence of this area. Many of the homes were fairly new, most were well painted and well maintained. The area was clean and neat. On the ridge of the hills in the distance we could see an amazing line of great wind mills turning over and over powered by the ever present wind, providing both a practical source of energy and a beautiful scenic display. Leaving Lititz we entered Junction.

Our first stop in Junction was at “Blakey’s Place”. This is a unique farm, business and entertainment complex located on several acres of land. We enjoyed a warm Jamaican welcome by Mr. Lenworth Blake, owner of the complex. A gentleman with a hearty, jovial demeanor masking a shrewd head for business. The meeting was held on a rustic, enclosed patio which was used as a small conference area located next to an outdoor area used for hosting parties and weddings. We lunched buffet style on Jamaican stewed chicken and pork chops served with seasoned rice, steamed and fresh vegetables, and fruit punch, all home grown!

After the meeting concluded we toured the complex and visited the significant vegetable green house located on the property. Vines growing upright on strings. Cucumbers, sweet peppers and cherry tomatoes. A thousand pounds of sweet peppers produced per month! All enclosed and covered. We walked onwards to the factory where we viewed beautiful head stones made from local marble and imported granite; some were engraved with details and images of the beloved where requested. We also saw counter tops, pavement stones, a mattress factory, and a wood work factory for building school furniture. Then we went back to the entertainment centre where there is dining and dancing every fourth Saturday night when the venue has not been captured for a wedding.

We promised to return later for drinks and a social then we left Blakey’s to travel through Junction town center which is a clean, prospering town with nice buildings and on Saturdays’, a Jamaican country market scene where all streets are congested with the town people, shopping, chatting and the young men checking out the pretty girls.

Our final stop was at “Chocolate Villas”, a newly renovated guest house where we were greeted by Mr. Vernon Simpson, the owner, who it turns out was an acquaintance of my husband. The guest house is a small place with a lot of potential. Located on several acres of land it is a single floor establishment with eleven rooms, an entertainment centre, swimming pool and bar. Meals were available on order. While the men “caught up” on times past I was shown to our room which was a treat with charming solid engraved wood furniture, a high, solid double bed with a wooden “armoire “ in which to hang clothes as well as a solid wood chest of drawers with a mirror. The room contained a comfortable arm chair and a mounted TV constituted the remainder of the furnishings. Light coloured curtains could be pulled across the secured windows. In contrast the bathroom was modern with easily cleaned ceramic tile floors and the usual facilities.

In the distance the wind mills lazily rotated on the hills at their junction with God’s blue skies. That night the wind blew and blew and I realized the reason for the wind mills! South St. Elizabeth is not only the bread basket of Jamaica, it is the windiest parish also!

Later, as we listened to Reggae “old hits’” back at Blakey’s and sipped at Jamaica rum and coke ,and as we danced slowly to Bob Marley, the Heptones, the Techniques and Delroy Wilson tunes – music provided courtesy of” Mrs. Blakey” wearing her head phones and her dread locks in her fully outfitted music room – I thought how great it was to be able to just get away from the rat race and experience these true Jamaican roots.

Author Arna J Morgan

Traveling on a ‘Trini’ palate is not for the faint of heart, or the weak stomached; after all, we were featured on Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern. So with your Tums and any other stomach reliever of your choice in hand, we commence on a journey of taste.

So where exactly do we start? The selection seems endless.

Street Food

Its Carnival season; and trust me after the cooler fete your belly would be growling. A quick fix might be a KFC drive-tru or the gyro man on the avenue, but with all that alcohol you may need something with a little spice and besides face it at 2am you still want to socialize or as we say  ‘lime’.

So let’s head west in search of a mini-city snuggled in the midst of Cocorite, Maraval and Woodbrook; It is the city that never sleeps; the neon lights of bars at every corner and a food stand in every nook. It is Trinidad’s little Vegas minus the grand casinos.

The birthplace of infamous female rapper Nicki Minaj, and for the literary enthused, once the home of Nobel Prize Winner V.S. Naipaul. This strip of non-stop activity starts from the roundabout at King George V Park and the Queen’s Park Oval where a green majestic sign pays homage to the mini-city’s Indian heritage and welcomes you to a place of endless possibilities.

Welcome to St. James…

Here we have the option of being safe and having a normal barbeque meal from the popular restaurant, Rib House or “ah doubles with slight” from any of the million “doubles” vendors on the strip. Doubles is a sandwich made with two bara (flat fried breads) filled with channa (curried chick peas).

On the other hand, we can join the bizarre team and try the rich taste of pig’s blood in the form of “black pudding”. Yes, sautéed with onions, tomatoes, pimentos, garlic, and depending on your tolerance levels pepper. Black pudding is a local treat normally served with freshly baked hops bread. Now, I cannot exactly tell you how this succulent dish tastes since I am not part of the bizarre team, I keep it safe and go for food at the Rib House or I have the gyros. Nevertheless, friends are always trying to convince me to try it, ranting of its full body and well seasoned tang (The ball is in your court).

Home Cooked

You are recovering from the Carnival fever and lent is in full swing. Fish is at its utmost high and selling like hot hops. Fast food outlets are raving of their new scrumptious fish combos while the fancy restaurants have pulled out their lobster and shrimp specials; and soon enough my long awaited Good Friday meal will be served.

Every Good Friday since I can remember my mother or grandmother would prepare a certain meal. Not found in your everyday restaurants or at any street vendor, this meal is reserved for the homes of those that dare to devour it.

At first glance, one may attribute that it is more a creature than a fish. With a scaly exterior, that makes consumption a skill. Now as I said before I am dealing with the bizarre aspects of “Trini” cuisine.

Normally served with Dumplings and curried, this sweet tasting Lizard-like river dweller is said to have supernatural powers. According to Folklore, whoever dares to suck the juices of the tasty Casadura or cascadoo shall end their days in Trinidad. If so, “I is a Trini till I dead”

Snacks

After Easter, the August holidays arrive in a blink of an eye and for “Trinis” that means “chow” and a good river “lime”. Now do not get me wrong “chow” can be enjoyed throughout the year, since by definition it’s a pepper salad made from anything from mango, pineapple, orange, plum, to even cucumbers. However, the king is Mango, a nice half ripe (not the Rolls-Royce/ Julie) mango sliced, dashed with salt, and seasoned with garlic, chadon/shadon beni and PEPPER, some lime if you want. Sit back and enjoy with the water nearby. It does not last long, before you know it the mangoes are all full ripe and for me they lose their “chow-essence” so I will wait until next year.

Wild-Meat

Schools open and soon “the hunt will be on.” From the start of October to the end of February, refrigerators nationwide are packed with an assortment of meats that are not found at any supermarket, street vendor, or restaurant. Manicou (opossum), Lappe, Quenk (wild hogs) Tatoo (armadillo) Agouti, Deer, and the list goes on.

However, one particular creature that is a favourite at this time and is another home cooked delight is the iguana. Yes…the big green lizard with spikes. The rock-roll master of the reptile family is said to be the cleanest meat in the crop hence being a favourite among “Trinis” but only during hunting season (October to the end of February).

Not my favourite though since I am afraid of the creature and would surely run in the opposite direction should it enter the kitchen; but I have been told that it is great especially curried and do not pass on the eggs either, they are also a treat.

A Real “Trini” Christmas

Nothing beats the smell of a “Trini” Christmas kitchen, the ham, the turkey, black cake, sponge cake, “pastelles,” bread and of course the sweetbread.

Christmas in Trinidad has a tradition, sadly some of it is being lost due to the American influence on our culture; nonetheless, some families try their best to conserve our Christmas rituals.

It’s not Christmas in my house without the “fixing up” of the house on Christmas Eve; the “paranging” at two in the morning; and sweetbread with butter and cheese for breakfast. And you cannot forget the sorrel that would surely make you fail a breathalyzer test and recover on the day we call “Laywah” (January 6).

The anatomy of “Trini” gastronomy

Once edible it will find its way into a pot, stewed curried or fried; add some pepper, some green seasonings and mix it all up. As they say “better belly buss than good food waste”…the palate of this twin island paradise is filled with endless possibilities, from the famous few that have made their appearance on the international front to those cooks whose skills are reserved for hidden kitchens. There are many Trinidad food dishes that can make your face cringe at the thought yet leave you licking your fingers and asking more.

Author Kyna Rampersad

Check Kyna’s Blog (Kyna D. Rampersad) to read more of her writing and to view her photography.

Montserrat is a true Caribbean island and strives to stay that way. Its beautiful green mountains pierce the clouds; its black volcanic-sand beaches possess a deserted-island mesmerizing beauty; and its people are the friendliest in the Caribbean and know only one speed – slow. This island constantly reminds you that you are indeed in the Caribbean when the ocean can be seen from almost any point, and the locals, or Stratians as they call themselves, welcome you with genuine warmth. It is a serious fauxpas to not say Good morning/evening/night to even the strangest stranger and whilst driving, your arm may just fall off from waving at everyone you happen to pass. There is a pleasant sense of community on this island of roughly six thousand people and once you land, you will never experience the kind of xenophobia you may encounter in other Caribbean islands. In fact, your arrival may just precede you to the number of watering holes before you actually sit for your first beer. Montserratians are a friendly breed despite a volcano that has been erupting since 1995 and displacing most of the population, disrupting many lives and halting the island’s high-end tourism product.

One would believe that the Soufriere Hills Volcano dominates the character of Montserrat. It certainly has redefined the island which once was a get-away for the rich. The volcano started erupting in 1995 and has destroyed the capital, Plymouth which has been described as a modern day Pompeii. This is actually an accurate description of the old capital, as it is covered in many feet of volcanic ash and rubble. I have walked into an abandoned house to see clothes still hanging in closets and tables prepared with dishes of what used to be food. The main cathedral still has a large Bible at the pulpit and the priests’ cassocks were neatly hung in the Vestry. Clambering over boulders in the deserted, frozen-in-time Plymouth stirs a sense of adventure, tickling at the childhood fantasy of being Indiana Jones but there is an overwhelming sense of sadness. It was clear that many had lost a lot. The embalmed Plymouth had lost all its life because of the volcano; and is slowly being entombed under ash.

Despite the loss of their capital city, Montserratians have moved on with life with a resilience that reflects that of the island that has experienced several explosive eruptions. Although confined to only a third of the island, Montserratians bear little grudge to the Soufriere Hills Volcano. Regardless, there is the occasional lament of losing property, mumblings of “the nicer old days” and frustrated outbursts like “this blasted volcano need to finish.” I have also heard the volcano being referred to as Madame Soufriere. Once, a patron at a small rum shop in direct view of the volcano once yelled at me to see “Madame Soufriere raising her skirt.” He was referring to the clouds, usually shrouding the volcano, lifting and making it possible to see the pinnacle of the volcano.

Montserrat may be a real Caribbean island but it is also nicknamed the Other Emerald Isle. Whether you arrive by air or sea, your first view is of the verdant mountains rising out the ocean. Closer, the steep valleys and cliff-lined coastal topography reveal themselves. When you actually step foot onto the island, it will become immediately apparent that the island was not flippantly given the moniker, Emerald Isle. Montserrat has a rich and authentic Irish ancestry and though there has been much mixing with other Caribbean islanders, the Irish heritage is still strong and a big to-do is made annually on St. Patrick’s Day. “Goat water,” what I believe should be the national dish, apparently has its origins from the first Irish settlers that arrived on the island. I also believe that these Irish settlers ate well because Goat Water is a tasty, rich, gravy-thick stew of, naturally, mutton, with the right amount of heavy-handed spices that will easily make you go through a tub of it without realizing that you cannot fit any more. From experience I will tell you that not all Goat Water is created equal but that is only my opinion. I will leave it up to you to try to determine which small shop, on whichever busy road, with particular finicky hours of operation, has the best Goat Water.

Sea water is another story. I scheme my way to this island because of its amazing beaches, diving and hiking. If you like to put your face in sea water to see many exotic species of marine life in one place, then you’ll certainly enjoy Montserrat. When the Soufriere Hills Volcano isn’t throwing a tantrum, the diving and snorkelling are excellent. I would like to believe that due to the island’s halted development, the sheer variety of marine species one can see is impressive. There are two Dive Shops on the island: The Green Monkey, and Scuba Montserrat, and both are operations run by very friendly adopted Stratians who will ensure that you have a good experience both above and below the water.

Being in the sea may not be everybody’s cup of tea. Sitting on an empty beach until the sun sets is also a gratifying activity. The majority of the island’s beaches are black sand but there is one white sand beach, hidden in a bay filled with coral reefs and is only accessible by a short hike or by boat. You can also opt to hike the many trails that snake through the Centre Hills. If you intend to venture up a trail, it is advisable that you arrange for a guide or you may end up in the exclusion zone with the Madame Soufriere looming over you. It would be criminal to visit this island and not learn about its volcano. To do this would require a visit to the Montserrat Volcano Observatory which offers a good vantage point for viewing the volcano, as well as tours led by the resident volcanologists.

As far as accommodations are concerned, there are no all-inclusive resorts; no bland buffet-menu food; no annoying resort entertainment directors; and there are certainly no throngs of tourists crowding you. Montserrat seems to have perfected the luxury villa concept. Many villas come with an ocean view, pool and a house cleaner, and are surprisingly affordable. If one really desires entertainment, there is an entire small island to explore. If you’d rather sit back and let the island’s pleasantly somnolent charm slow your metabolic rate, there are plenty of opportunities to watch the sun set and be greeted by a star-filled sky.

This island of Montserrat is a place where you inevitably find yourself connected to. Even the crazies, unlike those anywhere else, are endearing. One of my favourite persons on Montserrat is a pleasant schizophrenic who spends his day walking between the Government Headquarters and Little Bay (a two mile, steep-hill walk), jamming to a wireless transistor radio with no batteries. Whenever asked what he was listening to, he would give a topical answer. Whether it was the news of the day, or cricket scores, it was always followed by a courteous Good Bye.

I simply love this island, and jump at any and every opportunity to return for a visit. One tip though: never try to hustle the attendant that is pumping your gas because you are trying to be somewhere on time; they will go only slower.

Author Machel Higgins